Public Swimming Pools

Did you ever wonder why a nation of less than 30 million people can produce such good swimmers?  The answer is beaches of course but also public swimming pools.  Even in small towns you will find olympic size swimming pools.  Brisbane has nineteen of them and they are life savers on hot sweltering days.  Once when passing through Goondiwindi (pronounced Gun-da-windy) we bathed in the artesian-fed public swimming pool for hours to escape the heat which was a balmy 122F (50 celsius).  Most of them has a open-air change rooms, a restaurant and even grassy areas for a picnic.

Check out Brisbane's pools at:  http://www.ourbrisbane.com/lifestyle/health-sport-and-fitness/swimming-pools

Some delicacies you have to try

Musk lifesavers:

One of my favourite candies (lollies), and indeed a favourite of many Australians, is the musk lifesaver.  Non Australians say it tastes like soap but it is a great breath revitalizer.

Vegemite:

This salty, yeast-based spread has been exported to many countries overseas.  It has therefore lost its surprise factor.  I still remember the day my wife to be Marielle slabbed on a thick coating of vegemite onto her toast thinking it was nutella and then took a big bite.  Call the fire brigade! 

Snack bars:

Australians love chocolate.  In every grocery store are large displays of chocolates which we ate as dessert every night.  Lucky we did lots of walking during the day.  The large family size bars would cost from $3-5 AUD and the tastiest was the Snack bar.  The snack bar has twelve different flavours ranging from pineapple (my favourite) to vanilla and even turkist delight.

Surfer's Paradise

Surfers in the distance - taken from Burleigh Heads

Many rich people from Asia have condominiums in Surfers

At the North end of Queensland's Gold Coast lies Surfers Paradise about seventy minutes South of Brisbane.  Surfers is Australia's Miami with numerous skyscrapers, nightclubs and with a great surf beach and of course the Meter Maids.  These skimpily clad ladies - sorry no photos unless you pay $5 AUD - are a great tourist attraction.  They feed coins into expired meters (car meters that is).

Cassowary

I will forgive you for thinking that Australia has only one large flightless bird, the emu.  However in the tropical rain forests of North Queensland lives another one, the cassowary.  Unlike the emu the cassowary is declining in numbers due mainly to habitat loss.  Note the large helmut (comb) on the head which is used by the bird to brush aside vegetation as it runs through the rain forest.  Looking at this bird you could perhaps support the argument that birds descended from the dinosaurs.

Sydney Opera House

The Sydney Opera House is one of the world's twenty most distinctive buildings.  It was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007 and visitors to Syndey are impressed by its unique design of sails jutting into Sydney hrabour.  However its construction was shrouded in controversy and a very sad event.  The Opera House was formally completed in 1973, ten years over schedule and a staggering fourteen times over cost, from $7 million planned to $102 million actual.  The architect Jorn Utzon left the project before it was completed.  The New South Wales government organized a lottery to pay for the overrun and the winner's son was abducted for a ransom.  The son was murdered before the ransom could be paid.

Read more at:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sydney_Opera_House#Construction_history

Wooloongabba

Don't you just love these aboriginal names?  Woolloongabba is an inner suburb of Brisbane best known for the Brisbane Cricket Ground (the Gabba).  The cricket ground has undergone some radical renovations since I used to go there in the 1970s to watch intersate games that Queensland invariably lost.  In those days there was a large grassy hill, strangely called the Hill, where we could swill down vast amounts of beer from Castelmaine XXXX tinnies.  Who cared whether Queensland was winning or not.  A lot of beer creates a big appetite.  We would turn to our old favourites of fish and chips wrapped in newspaper and chiko rolls.  A chiko roll is an oversized savoury snack with almost the same form and content as an egg roll - spring roll combination with one difference.  It wasn't pork in the roll rather it was mutton.  I can't believe I actually ate those things.  At the other end of the ground from the Hill were a series of stands set beneath huge Moreton Bay fig trees which gave a certain exotic feel to the place.

Publican's Verandah

Right off the bat you will note that Australians spell the word differently by adding an ‘h’.  A verandah is a covered gallery often found surrounding the second story of Australian pubs.  A publican is a person who owns a pub (hotel) a very popular trade in Australia.  Therefore a publican’s verandah is the gallery or in more colloquial terms it refers to the huge stomach many publicans have due to excessive consumption of beer.

The Great Flood

Brisbane had experienced many floods before the one in 1974 however this one was my first.  After several weeks of higher than normal rainfall cyclone Wanda parked itself offshore and dragged the monsoonal trough line down to Brisbane.  We had 65 centimetres of rain in ten days which was too much for the normally sluggish and meandering Brisbane River to handle.  Fourteen people lost their lives and 200 million dollars of damage was caused.  One memory I have was my visit to see my friend Andrew.  He lived with his parents in Yeronga at least a kilometre from the river.  When I arrived I was appalled to see only the cornice of his 2-story house peeking out of the floodwaters.  My family luckily went unscathed as we had moved to the suburb of Sunnybank Hills far out of the reach of the floodwaters.  I did get several days off work though as the Brisbane downtown core was also flooded.

I managed to find this video on Youtube which shows the floodwaters in the city centre.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWrd2U2tYAw

The Eureka Stockade

The Eureka Stockade was a protest by gold miners on 3 December 1854 which went horribly wrong. If you intend visiting the former goldfields of Ballarat and Bendigo in Victoria then get a head start by reading all about it at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eureka_Stockade

The Southern Cross

Have you ever wondered about the stars on the Australian flag? The five stars you see are the brightest ones of the Southern Cross (Crux) constellation which can only be seen in the southern hemisphere. The stars are named alpha, beta, gamma, delta, and epsilom. The other part of the flag is the British Union Jack which represents Australia's historical (convict) roots and of course if you don't count the Dutch explorers. Even today it remains an irritant to many Australians. Lacking a pole star in the southern hemisphere, the alpha and beta stars, often referred to as pointer stars, are used for locating the South Pole important for navigation. In aboriginal folklore two of the stars represent the head of an emu while the whole constellation is a possum sitting in a tree. The Southern Cross has historical importance as well. It appeared on the Eureka Flag (see my article on the Eureka Stockade) representing revolution against oppression.

Opals

I bought Marielle an opal at a factory outlet place north of the Gold Coast. Did you know that Australia produces about 97% of the world’s opals, mining them in strange sounding places like Coober Pedy and Andamooka? When you visit Australia invariably you will be tempted to buy an opal. To ensure you get value for money you should know what you are buying : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opal

Burleigh Heads

Burleigh Heads Beach with National Park in the background

Burleigh Heads Beach with Surfers Paradise in the background

Sunrise - view from our apartment at Burleigh Heads

Burleigh Heads is a self contained community tucked away between the beach and the Pacific Highway about half way between Surfer’s Paradise in the north and Coolangatta in the south of the Gold Coast. Burleigh boasts two small supermarkets, a bake shop, several restaurants, two pubs with one overlooking the beach, liquor store and a bowling green. What else could you ask for? In the morning you could go surfing, go walking along the beachside bike path which also has numerous exercise stops, or walk through the national park. If it like quiet, with conveniences and quick access to other parts of the Gold Coast and the hinterland, then Burleigh is the place for you. It is about 90 minutes south of Brisbane.

Sydney

Sydney skyline from Taronga Park zoo

Wrought iron work - Paddington

Syndey Harbour Bridge from Observatory Hill

How do you start to describe Australia’s biggest city? I’m not going to try however here is what we did during our short four day visit. We went to Circular Quay and took a ferry to Manly Beach. Marielle didn’t like the ocean swell and the small waves crashing onto the fore deck while navigating past the “Heads”. We went to Taronga Park zoo on a ferry. Not only is the zoo worth seeing in its own right but the views over the city are spectacular. We went to the Botanical Gardens which were expansive but drab as it was Winter after all. The hundreds of flying foxes (bats) roosting in the trees was interesting if only to make sure their guano didn’t end up on your head. We went to china town, large and full of restaurants with people selling cheap meals, and Paddy’s Market to see the same tourist merchandize at lower prices than the prices asked, and we paid, at tourist shops downtown. We went to “The Rocks” historical district of cobble streets and boutiques with great views to the Harbour Bridge. We walked on the Harbour Bridge and baulked at the $150 per person (each) price tag to scale the bridge. We lounged around on Observatory Hill while shooing away the ibises (birds) gathered to see if we had handouts. We visited the Aquarium which is a “must” to see the big tanks of sharks and turtles and the playful platypuses. We visited the IMAX, the biggest in the southern hemisphere or was it the world, while the parents ate at a waterside restaurant in Darling Harbour. We visited Paddington an inner suburb known for “Sydney Lace” – wrought iron lattice work on all the houses. We also circumnavigated the Opera House a couple of times without going in. I hear the tour is worth the money and if you can catch a show it’s even better. And not forgetting the kilometers upon kilometers of walking to get to all these places through streets of rushing crowds, colonial buildings and restaurants for all tastes and wallets.

Daintree

The Daintree is region of rain forested mountains, freshwater streams and ocean beaches north of Port Douglas in tropical North Queensland. The Daintree rain forest is on the World Heritage List and shelters an extraordinary number of frogs, marsupials, reptiles, bats, butterflies and birds. We didn’t find much evidence of them on a cool and cloudy winter’s day except for our trip to spot crocodiles.

Out trip started in a nondescript shack, one of several selling boat cruises, in the middle of a cane field on the banks of the Daintree River. The owner or at least the guy selling the tickets was barefoot and wearing baggy shorts and open front short-sleeve shirt. He served us local tea until his guide turned up. This guy thought he was God’s gift to women. Once getting over the human wildlife we concentrated on the natural stuff and I must admit the guide was informative in a kind of “poor joke” sort of way. We saw crocodiles of course, snakes, frogs and birds including an azure kingfisher. The tour was worth the $10 each we paid. We also walked in the rain forest and along the beach.

For more information go to this site: http://www.daintreerainforest.com/

Tin and Timber

If you have the time and you like walking then take some time to observe the houses in Queensland. The following web site gives you an idea of styles.

http://www.redroof.com.au/qld-housing-styles.html

You should set aside a day or more in Brisbane where you could see them all. My former house in Yeerongpilly (love those aboriginal names!) was an Ashgrovian style. It was built out of wood, sat on wooden stumps and had a tin roof painted green. The wooden stumps were replaced by cement ones to avoid white ant problems. To protect the wood my father, rarely helped by your truly, had to paint the outside and the roof every few years. A job he detested with a passion. I remember summer afternoons listening to the cricket on the radio in the cool breezes under the house. The ground floor was enclosed with wooden lattes that afforded privacy but let the air circulate. We didn’t have air conditioning and rarely needed it. The roof however was another thing. When pummeled with heavy rain or hail, a common occurrence on summer afternoons, the noise would be enough to drown out even my mother’s calls to do my chores.

Australia Day

Australia Day is an official national holiday celebrated annually on 26 January. It also ends the Summer break for students. It commemorates the arrival of the First Fleet at Sydney Cove in 1788. The fleet carried convicts, charged in England with what we would regard as petty crimes (e.g. stealing a loaf of bread), who were deported to provide slave labour in the colonies. It took over a hundred years to actual form a country. On January 1, 1901 the Commonwealth of Australia was formed by federating the numerous colonies into a nation.

Waltzing Matilda

This song epitomizes the convict heritage of colonial Australia more than any other. The song narrates the story of an itinerant worker who steals a sheep to eat. When the sheep's owner arrives with the police the worker (swagman) drowns himself in a small lake and goes on to haunt the site.

According to wikipedia Waltzing Matilda means to travel with a swag, that is, with all one's belongings on one's back wrapped in a blanket or cloth. As there were no women around the swagman would waltz with the swag for entertainment. However I disagree with wikipedia. My relatives insist that Waltzing Matilda has a sadder meaning tied to early colonial times. Matilda was the name given to the hangman’s gallows and waltzing was the death throes of the convicted. This seems plausible as stealing a sheep in those times was punishable by death.

Here are the lyrics of the song. I have added translations I italics.

Once a jolly swagman (itinerant worker) camped by a billabong (lake)
Under the shade of a coolibah (type of eucalyptus) tree,
And he sang as he watched and waited 'til his billy (kettle) boiled
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me"Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me"
And he sang as he watched and waited 'til his billy boiled,"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me".

Down came a jumbuck (sheep)to drink at that billabong,
Up jumped the swagman and grabbed him with glee,
And he sang as he stowed that jumbuck in his tucker (food) bag,
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me".
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me"
And he sang as he stowed that jumbuck in his tucker bag,
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me".

Up rode the squatter, mounted on his thoroughbred (horse)
Down came the troopers (police), one, two, three,
"Where's that jolly jumbuck you've got in your tucker bag?"
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me".
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me"
"Where's that jolly jumbuck you've got in your tucker bag?",
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me".

Up jumped the swagman and sprang into the billabong,
"You'll never take me alive", said he,
And his ghost may be heard as you pass by that billabong,
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me".
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me
"And his ghost may be heard as you pass by that billabong,
"You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me."

"Oh, You'll come a-Waltzing Matilda, with me."

QANTAS

We flew with QANTAS (the Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Service). See! It isn’t another word for Koala. We chose QANTAS because of their impeccable safety record. No deaths ever although just before our departure QANTAS airplanes were involved in a near miss and a turbulent flight. Several people were injured in the later.

To be quite frank QANTAS was very disappointing. We flew on a Boeing 747 – may be the Airbus would have been better – which was showing its age. The seat cushions had lost any semblance of padding, the on board flight program only consisted of films and music, no games (Sudoku can wile away the hours) and the system went down on the way to Australia for everybody and for me on the way back. Other than a quick apology I was left on my own.

The Aussie Pass however is unbeatable. For a price several hundred dollars less than Air Canada you also can get three internal flights free.

CBD

You will often see these three letters in driving instructions. They stand for Central Business District. Another Australian curiosity that took me a while to figure out.

Cairns

Since my last visit in 1976 the population of Cairns has almost tripled. I can see why. It now has an international airport and this combined with a tropical climate and proximity to the Great Barrier Reef makes it a tourist destination of choice. You can also drive or take the train if you’re not in a hurry. Cairns is more than 1,600 kilometres north of Brisbane. Despite our good intentions we didn’t see any of the Cairns attractions. If you have better luck take the steam train to Kuranda and the cruise to Green Island.

Mossman

Paul in a sugar can field with Mount Bellenden Ker, the highest in Queensland, in the background

Mossman is a small town 20 kilometres north of Port Douglas. On our way to Daintree we intended to stop to visit the Central Sugar Mill and the Mossman Gorge. We didn’t do either but we were told they are worth the visit. Doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that Mossman is sugar cane country

Boomerangs

Do boomerangs come back? Yes they do but it depends on how well you throw them. Even the cheap tourist shop ones well come back but watch out as they gather speed as they rotate. Boomerangs are used by aborigines to kill birds. One minute cockie (cockatoo) is sitting pretty on his perch the next minute he’s been felled by a boomerang. Listen to this song. Not all people are successful with boomerangs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_prtbj4MtDU

Brisbane

Marielle in front of a Bottle Tree
Paul in front of fence-eating Moreton Bay Fig tree

Brisbane skyline

I wondered how much Brisbane had changed since I left in 1980 and my last visit in the early nineties. Many of my friends had reported that it had grownup, from a sleepy country town albeit with a population close to a million, to a bustling cosmopolitan city. They were right. The Brisbane skyline has changed to one of towering condominium complexes and high rises with crowded streets full of young people and a decidedly asiatic influence. You can still find traditional pubs however they are outnumbered by sushi shops and Vietnamese restaurants. The botanical gardens are still there with their spectacular Moreton Bay Fig trees providing shade and even the little park where Marielle and I used to eat lunch together is unchanged with its benches, flower beds and Bottle trees (boababs). We spent most of our day in traffic jams on the highways under construction, shopping on the pedestrian mall (this never existed before) and visiting Mount Cootha for a walk through the other botanical gardens and a lookout over the city. Did you know that at many intersections in Australia traffic is stopped in all directions while pedestrians cross the streets every way including diagonally?